While Lenore and Erik headed off for a few days in Sorrento, I set out for a bit of luxury, in my role of travel writer. First up was Capri, where the five-star Capri Palace Hotel and Spa had offered to put me up for a night.
It’s hard to adequately capture it in words, but the hotel was absolutely gorgeous. It’s impeccably decorated, evoking a sense of peacefulness and tranquillity – which is much-needed amidst the tourist-crazed madness of Capri. Many of the rooms have private pools, and the ones that don’t (such as mine, sadly) have private terraces or ocean-view balconies. It’s obvious a lot of thought went into the renovation of the hotel last year, with details like terra cotta flooring, marble sinks from ancient roman baths, candles lighting the walkways, and so on. 
More importantly though, the service was amazing… little touches like bringing me a stool to set my purse on during dinner, remembering which brand of water I prefer, and the operator proactively offering to call my next hotel to arrange to have them pick me up at the hydrofoil. I guess that’s what $500 a night buys you, eh? In my case though, not only was the room free, but the hotel was tremendously generous and footed the bill for all my meals and a round of spa treatments. I felt like quite the princapessa!
At the hotel spa, I had my first truly satisfying massage in Europe – finally, someone who knows how to massage the neck and shoulders properly! After that came a detoxifying seaweed wrap and the patented “Leg School” treatment, as prescribed by the hotel’s on-staff doctor (who, by the way, resembles Al Pacino and has an unexpectedly calming presence). The leg treatment was a bit strange, but I can see how it would have positive effects after the week of treatments most guests get. It starts with a cold mud wrap – cold mud is painted on your legs, then you are wrapped up like a sardine in plastic, and left to chill for 20 minutes (literally chill – the mud somehow stays cold the entire time). Then your legs are wrapped in medicated bandages, and left for another 20 minutes. Finally, you get to alternate walking in hot and cold Jacuzzi pools for 15 minutes. Wa la, that’s Leg School! By the end of it, my legs were very tingly.
On top of all this, I was greeted with roses and fresh fruit in my room, given a grand tour of the hotel and spa, and treated as a special guest of the owner. It’s clear that Capri Palace understands the concept of service, and goes above and beyond in delivering it. 
Even Gnorley was extra happy, finally finding a comfy bed and the best night’s sleep he’s had on the trip so far.
The next morning, Gnorley and I set out to explore a bit of Capri before heading to Positano on our afternoon hydrofoil. The town of Anacapri has the usual round of shops schlepping postcards, magnets and the like, as well as plenty of clothing and glassware shops. It’s hard to get excited about visiting them though, when one has to elbow their way through the throngs of rude tourists that flock there daily.
To get away from the crowds, we caught a chair lift to the highest point on the island and took in the spectacular views of Capri, and Sorrento in the distance. After taking the requisite photos, I headed back down the lift again, and couldn’t help but think about the contrasts between Capri and Ischia – sister islands that somehow came out looking almost unrelated. Capri is like the chairlift itself – pleasant, easy, accessible… and you get where you want to be quickly. On Ischia, on the other hand, getting to the top of Mont Epomeo is an arduous hike up a narrow trail and over steep, rocky cliffs. But you know what? When you get to the top, you feel a sense of real accomplishment, and you actually want to stay longer than five minutes to enjoy the view – which can’t be beat!
Guess it turns out I’m not a princapessa after all. Who’d have guessed? ;-)
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